I recently returned from a trip to Kentucky, where I completed the Bourbon Trail. The trail consists of six distilleries: Four Roses, Heaven Hill, Jim Beam, Maker’s Mark, Wild Turkey, and Woodford Reserve. Much like the wine trails of Texas, which I’ve written about previously, the bourbon trail has a passport for an added incentive to visit all six distilleries. Each distillery will stamp your passport and once all six are complete, the passport can be mailed off for a free t-shirt so you can show off your awesomeness to the lesser refined drinkers of the world.

If I had to choose where to base a repeat trip out, I would fly out to Louisville, but stay at a hotel out in Bardstown. It’s closer to all the distilleries than Louisville. Also make a point to plan ahead on this one, especially if traveling on a weekend. The distilleries open later and close earlier on Sundays and in the case of Jim Beam cannot sell or serve tastings on Sundays due to local laws. Another thing to point out is there are plenty of distilleries that are not on the trail, but are in the area, and worth checking out. Buffalo Trace immediately comes to mind. If your planning on going I would say take two days for dedicated travel and devote three, preferably weekdays, to distillery and bar hoping. Especially if you’re interested in the deluxe tours offered by some of the facilities or interested in seeing some of the off-trail sites.
We stayed in Louisville at the Brown Hotel. The Brown hotel dates back to 1923 where it was a center for the local affluent. The architecture is distinctly English Renaissance. Marble floors, antique cherry furniture, and extremely lavish woodworking that includes inlaid relief ceiling tiles. It’s the first time I’ve ever had dinner on the top of a piano that was playing live music. It was definitely a unique experience for the books. The bar also stocks 50 different types of bourbon and 40 wines. Although the primary reason for going was bourbon, I enjoyed the Petite Syrah, Zinfandel, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Normally I would have done some wine tasting notes, but since this wasn’t a wine tour, I decided just to enjoy it for what it was and not bother with busting out the notebook. The Brown also has the most down to earth, and just generally cool, bar tending staff I’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting. Just to be clear, the Brown is not a budget hotel, look to drop around $250 USD a night in the off season. During the Kentucky Derby rooms can be as much as $1000 USD a night. It is however awesome and even if you’re not going to stay there, you should at least hit the restaurant and order the dish made famous there called The Hot Brown.

Interesting side note on this trip Mike and I both got mild food poisoning from a Reuben sandwich on day one. That made for an interesting evening.
The mini tour of Heaven Hill is a bit of a waste. The guide walks you through the museum, and spends very little time on it. You can show yourself through as it is and spend time reading everything. The only advantage of taking the tour is the single free tasting at the end. The actual distillery is located off the site and they don’t give tours. There is a replica display in the museum, but that’s it. If you’re planning a trip and can’t hit all the distilleries on the tour then skip Heaven Hill. They also offer a deluxe tour where they take you to the warehouse and offer an expanded tasting. For a separate fee, a local history bus tour is available. The mini and deluxe tours are free.

Wild Turkey was not in production while we were there, but the tour of the facility was still good. They are actually in the process of moving to a brand new distillery which will spin up in December 2010. So for those of you looking to see the original I advise getting out there soon. Out of all the tours at all the distilleries, our guide at Wild Turkey was the most knowledgeable and thorough.
The grounds at Makers Mark are beautiful. All the buildings are Victorian in architecture, jet black with red doors and red window shutters. As an added bonus, they were decorated for Christmas so all the windows had wreaths with red accent bows. Couple that with the beautiful Kentucky countryside in fall, and it makes for a wonderful visual experience.

I’ve discovered that my target bourbon is in the 85 – 95 proof range anything over that is too hot for me. Makers Mark 46 was by far the best I had. Second, although not from a distillery on the tour, but from the historic Talbott Tavern in Bardstown, was Pappy Van Winkle. The hardest to swallow was the Sam Houston. A unique feature of the bar is a bourbon flight. For $25 USD one can get 5 shot glasses filled with any bourbon the bar stocks. This is great from a taster’s perspective because the bar currently stocks 45 unique types and, according to the bartender, will be expanding to over 50 by Christmas.
If I had to give out awards:
- Best Tour: Wild Turkey
- Second Best Tour: Woodford Reserve
- Most Interesting Facility: Makers Mark
- Second Most Interesting Facility: Woodford Reserve
- Most Scenic Grounds: Makers Mark
- Favorite Drink on Tour: Makers Mark 46
- Favorite Drink off Tour: Pappy Van Winkle